Journal article
Nonlinear sharpening during superposition of surface waves
D Chalikov, AV Babanin
Ocean Dynamics | SPRINGER HEIDELBERG | Published : 2016
Abstract
Two-dimensional direct wave model is used for demonstration of the role of reversible interactions which probably is the main process leading to breaking. One-dimensional model was used for performing of thousands of exact short-term simulations of evolution of two superposed wave trains with different steepness, and wavenumbers were performed to investigate the effect of wave crests merging. Nonlinear sharpening of the merging crests is demonstrated. It is suggested that such effect may be responsible for appearance of the typical sharp crests of surface waves, as well as for wave breaking.
Grants
Awarded by Office of Naval Research
Funding Acknowledgements
The authors would like to thank Mrs. O. Chalikova for her assistance in preparation of the manuscript. The work was supported by RSF, Grant No. 14-05-00422. AVB acknowledges support of the US Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-13-1-0278.